Muzzleloading

Everything a muzzleloader hunter or target shooter needs, from powder to projectiles to the small parts that keep a range day running, is gathered here. We carry true black powder from Goex, Swiss, and Schuetzen, substitutes and pellets from Hodgdon, Alliant, Blackhorn, and Shooter's World, round balls and bullets from Hornady and Barnes, and caps and primers from CCI, Remington, Winchester, and RWS.

Start with how your rifle fires

Your ignition system decides most of your shopping list. A sidelock percussion rifle or revolver needs percussion caps that fit its nipple. A modern in-line with a 209 breech plug needs 209 primers. Flintlocks need neither, since they fire from a flint striking the frizzen and lighting fine powder in the pan.

Choosing a propellant

True black powder is the traditional choice and the most dependable option for flintlocks and many historical arms. Substitutes from Hodgdon and other makers foul less and are easier to find in many areas, and pre-measured pellets speed up loading in in-lines rated for them. Granulation matters too. FFg is the usual grade for rifles of .50 caliber and up, while FFFg suits smaller bores and pistols. You'll find all of them in black powder and substitutes.

From round ball to sabot

Swaged lead round balls come in a wide range of diameters for patched-ball rifles and cap-and-ball revolvers. For in-line hunting, saboted bullets from Barnes and Hornady reach out farther, and some modern designs load without a sabot at all. Browse them in round balls, bullets, and sabots, and pick up ramrod tips, loading aligners, and other small parts in muzzleloading tools and accessories.

Shipping powder and primers

Black powder substitutes, pellets, caps, and 209 primers ship as hazmat and can share one hazmat fee with your other powder and primers. True black powder is classified differently and ships separately. Projectiles and tools ship like any other order. Our shipping policy has current details.

New to muzzleloading?

Our guide to what a muzzleloader is covers the main types and how they work. Before you load, read your rifle's manual for the powder types and charges its maker allows.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. What do I need to get started loading a muzzleloader?

You'll need a propellant rated for your firearm (true black powder, a substitute, or pellets, with pellets only for guns rated for them), a projectile such as a bullet, sabot, or round ball, the correct ignition source (percussion caps or 209 primers), a ramrod, and basic cleaning supplies. Your manual specifies loading procedures and safe charges.

2. What's the difference between a traditional and an in-line muzzleloader?

Traditional muzzleloaders use a side-mounted lock, typically flintlock or percussion cap ignition, styled after historical firearms. In-line muzzleloaders place the ignition directly in line with the bore, usually with a 209 primer, which tends to give more consistent ignition and easier maintenance. Both load from the muzzle, but hardware and procedures differ.

3. Do muzzleloading powder and ignition components ship the same way as other reloading supplies?

Black powder substitutes, pellets, percussion caps, and 209 primers ship as hazmat and can be combined with smokeless powder and other primers under one hazmat fee. True black powder is classified as DOT 1.1D and ships separately. Bullets, sabots, and accessories aren't hazmat. See our shipping policy for current fees and state restrictions.

4. How do I clean a muzzleloader after use?

Black powder and most substitutes leave corrosive fouling, so clean soon after shooting rather than at the next range trip. Run solvent-soaked patches through the bore, clean the breech plug and nipple or breech area, then dry and lightly oil the bore to prevent rust. Follow your manufacturer's model-specific instructions.

5. What safety steps come before loading a muzzleloader?

Confirm the firearm is unloaded and the bore is clear. Measure each charge with a proper powder measure, and seat the projectile firmly on the powder without excessive force. Mark your ramrod at the fully seated depth to confirm the projectile is on the charge every time. Never cap or prime until you're ready to fire.